- Typical home: $22,000–$38,000
- Asphalt, for comparison: $14,000–$20,000
- Lasts: 45–60 years
- Install: 2–3 days typical
- Local crews — SW WA & Portland metro
A metal roof on a typical 2,000 square foot Clark County or Portland-area home runs roughly $22,000 to $38,000 installed, against $14,000 to $20,000 for a quality asphalt shingle re-roof. Panel system is the biggest single variable — exposed-fastener corrugated sits at the low end, snap-lock standing seam in the middle around $26,000 to $35,000, and mechanically seamed at the top. Color tier, gauge, roof complexity, and any decking repairs move the number from there. Because metal lasts 45 to 60 years against 25 to 30 for architectural asphalt, most homeowners are really comparing one metal roof to two shingle roofs.
Metal is the most common upgrade question we get, and it’s usually asked in the same breath as sticker shock. The honest framing: metal costs meaningfully more up front than asphalt, and for a homeowner planning to move in five years that’s hard to justify. For someone staying put, the math changes completely. Below is what actually drives the number on a Southwest Washington or Portland-metro roof, so you can tell a fair bid from a bad one. One note up front — these are ranges, not quotes. Every roof is different, and anyone giving you a firm price without looking at yours is guessing.
Metal roof cost by home size
Roofers price in squares — one square is 100 square feet of roof surface. Your roof is always bigger than your home’s footprint because of pitch and overhangs. A 2,000 sq ft single-story home is usually 22 to 25 squares; the steeper the pitch, the more roof per square foot of house.
Ranges are for 26-gauge material in a standard color on a straightforward roof, including tear-off and disposal. Square counts assume a moderate pitch — a steep or cut-up roof adds squares to the same footprint. PBR figures exclude insulation and foil blankets.
For comparison, a quality asphalt shingle re-roof on that same 2,000 sq ft home runs $14,000 to $20,000. If you’re still deciding between panel systems rather than pricing one you’ve already chosen, our guide to standing seam vs. corrugated vs. snap-lock covers what you actually get for the difference.
Two things that push you above these ranges
The table assumes a standard color and 26-gauge material, because that’s what most residential metal roofs use. Two upgrades are worth knowing about before you’re standing in front of a sample board:
- Premium colors. Metal panel pricing isn’t flat across the color chart. Standard catalog colors are stocked and priced accordingly. Certain deep reds and blues, metallics, matte and weathered finishes — anything using a specialty pigment — carry a real material upcharge and are sometimes special-order with longer lead times. This is the single most common reason a quote comes in above what a homeowner expected.
- 24-gauge material. Stepping up from 26 to 24 gauge is a modest increase, not a dramatic one. It buys better resistance to oil canning — the gentle waviness visible in flat metal panels under angled light — which matters most on prominent, street-facing roofs and on dark colors that show it more readily.
Ask which tier a color sits in before you commit to it, not after. Nobody minds an upcharge they were told about; everyone minds one they discover at signing.
What else drives the price
Two homes on the same street with identical square footage can come in thousands apart. Here’s where the difference lives, roughly in order of impact:
- Panel system. The biggest lever, and why the table has three columns. Concealed-fastener standing seam costs more than exposed-fastener corrugated in both material and labor, and mechanically seamed adds a seaming pass on every seam.
- Roof complexity. Every valley, dormer, chimney, skylight, and pipe penetration is custom flashing and cut panels. A simple gable is far cheaper per square than a cut-up hip roof with three dormers.
- Pitch. Steep roofs are slower and need more fall protection. Very low slopes push you toward mechanically seamed, which costs more.
- Existing layers. Removing and hauling two layers of old roofing costs more than one.
- Decking repair. The wildcard — we can’t see rot until the old roof is off. In our climate, soft sheathing around eaves, valleys, and chimneys is common on older homes.
- Ventilation and trim. Bringing attic intake and exhaust up to spec, plus ridge, eave, rake, and valley metal. All of it should be itemized in the bid.
Metal vs. asphalt: the payback math
Here’s the comparison that actually matters, using our own lifespan figures rather than manufacturer marketing:
- Architectural asphalt shingle: 25–30 years in this climate.
- Standing seam metal: 45–60 years.
Over a 50-year window you’re comparing one metal roof against roughly two asphalt roofs — and the second asphalt roof will cost more than the first, because material and labor don’t get cheaper. Add that metal sheds moss and debris better on our shaded north slopes, carries a Class A fire rating, and doesn’t lose granules, and the gap narrows further.
Where metal doesn’t pay off: if you’re selling within about five years, you won’t recover the premium, and asphalt is the better call. We’ll tell you that directly rather than sell you up. Our roof replacement cost guide covers the asphalt side in detail, and how long a metal roof lasts goes deeper on the lifespan side.
Will insurance or financing help?
Insurance pays to replace what you had, not to upgrade. If a covered storm destroys an asphalt roof, the claim covers an asphalt replacement — you can put that money toward metal and pay the difference yourself, which is a common and sensible move when the roof is coming off anyway. Some policies also include Ordinance & Law coverage that pays to bring the roof up to current code as part of the claim.
Financing spreads the up-front premium, which is what makes metal viable for a lot of homeowners who intend to stay. Our financing options page has the current programs.
What’s in every quote we write
When you’re comparing bids, compare inclusions, not just totals — the cheap bid is often cheap because something’s missing. Ours always spells out:
- Panel system, manufacturer, gauge, and color
- Tear-off and disposal of the existing roof
- Underlayment specification
- All flashing and trim — ridge, eave, rake, valley, and every penetration
- Ventilation work, where the attic needs it
- An allowance and per-sheet rate for decking repair, so a surprise doesn’t become a renegotiation
- Manufacturer material warranty and our workmanship warranty, stated separately
If a bid you’re holding doesn’t list those, ask. It’s the fastest way to find out whether you’re comparing the same job.
Want a real number for your roof?
Ranges only get you so far. We’ll measure the roof, look at the decking and ventilation, walk you through where the money’s going, and put it in writing. Free, and no obligation. Serving Portland, Vancouver & all of SW Washington.
Get a free metal roof estimate WA (360) 952-3998 · OR (503) 523-3449Frequently asked questions
How much does a metal roof cost in Vancouver, WA?
On a typical 2,000 square foot Clark County home, a metal roof runs roughly $22,000 to $38,000 installed, against $14,000 to $20,000 for a quality asphalt shingle re-roof. Panel system drives most of that spread: exposed-fastener corrugated sits at the low end, snap-lock standing seam lands around $26,000 to $35,000, and mechanically seamed is highest. Premium colors, 24-gauge material, roof complexity, and any decking repair move the figure up from there. The only way to get a real number is a measurement — a steep roof with three dormers costs meaningfully more than a simple gable of the same square footage.
Is a metal roof worth the extra cost over asphalt?
It depends almost entirely on how long you’re staying. Architectural asphalt lasts 25 to 30 years in our climate; standing seam metal lasts 45 to 60. Over a 50-year window you’re buying one metal roof instead of about two asphalt roofs, and the second asphalt roof will cost more than the first. If you plan to be in the house long-term, metal usually pencils out — and it sheds moss and debris better on shaded Northwest slopes. If you’re selling within about five years, you won’t recover the premium and asphalt is the better value.
Why is metal roofing more expensive than shingles?
Three reasons. The material itself costs more per square than asphalt. The labor is more skilled and slower — panels are cut and formed to your specific roof, and every valley, dormer, and penetration needs custom flashing rather than a shingle lapped over it. And a metal roof includes far more metal trim work: ridge, eave, rake, valley, and transition detailing that a shingle roof handles more simply. You’re also buying roughly twice the service life, which is where the up-front difference goes.
Does the color of a metal roof affect the price?
Yes, more than most homeowners expect. Metal panel pricing isn’t flat across the color chart. Standard catalog colors are stocked and priced accordingly, while premium finishes — certain deep reds and blues, metallics, matte and weathered finishes, anything using a specialty pigment — carry a genuine material upcharge and are sometimes special-order with longer lead times. Two otherwise identical roofs can land noticeably apart on color alone. Ask which tier a color sits in before you commit to a sample, not after.
Is standing seam more expensive than corrugated?
Yes. Corrugated and PBR panels fasten through the face with exposed screws, which is faster to install and cheaper in material, making them the least expensive metal option. Standing seam hides its fasteners under the seam on concealed clips, costs more in both material and labor, and lasts substantially longer — 45 to 60 years against 25 to 40 for exposed fastener, which also needs a re-screw at roughly the 10 to 20 year mark as the rubber washers degrade. Mechanically seamed standing seam is the most expensive of the three.
Does insurance cover a metal roof replacement?
Insurance pays to replace what you had, not to upgrade. If a covered storm destroys an asphalt roof, the claim covers an asphalt replacement — but you can apply that money toward metal and pay the difference, which is a sensible move when the roof is coming off anyway. Some policies also carry Ordinance & Law coverage that pays to bring the roof up to current code as part of the claim. If your existing roof is already metal and a covered event damages it, the claim should cover metal.
Can you finance a metal roof?
Yes. Financing is what makes metal workable for a lot of homeowners who intend to stay in the house long enough for the lifespan to pay off, since it spreads the up-front premium rather than requiring it all at closing. We have programs available and can walk you through the options alongside the estimate, so you can see the monthly figure next to the asphalt alternative and decide with real numbers rather than a guess.
How long does a metal roof installation take?
A typical residential re-roof runs 2 to 3 days, and larger or more complex jobs 4 to 5. Metal isn’t dramatically slower than asphalt on a straightforward roof, but complexity matters more — a cut-up roof with multiple dormers, valleys, and skylights takes longer because each detail is custom-formed rather than lapped. Weather also factors in more than with shingles on low-slope work. We’ll give you a realistic window with the estimate rather than an optimistic one.
